surfing diamond head

Got up early this morning and hit Diamond Head around 6:30.  It was a bit of side shore wind but surprisingly clean.  Alot of the crew that is always there in the morning was leaving when I got there.  I was wondering if I missed some email about some meeting or if the surf was bad.  Turned out it was pretty awesome.  Cleaner than I thought considering the wind and pretty fun size.  Backed off since last week/weekends bump but still some chest to shoulder high sets coming through.  There were some lulls in the action but hey, you are surfing in Hawaii so can't complain.

Hawaii is getting hit with a bit of a South Swell right now and it is the perfect mix of light winds and perfect sun.  It is making for fun and glassy conditions.

Surf last night was really fun.  I hit up Tonggs.  It was glassy and some head high and even a few overhead sets.  Caught some fun lefts and tried one right that totally closed out on me.

The drops were good and there was a good push for sure behind all of them.  Some of them were actually closing out a bit which is funny for the crumbly shoulders Tonggs gets.

Diamond Head wasn't big but it was clean.  Got out there with the post work crowd to some waist to maybe chest high glassy ones.  There was really no wind around which made it a beautiful night to surf.  Unfortunately it seems as if everyone in Town realized that and made it out, so it was a bit crowded. Plenty of nice vibe out there so plenty for everyone.  Stoked to just be out there and see this sunset.  Mean looking cloud of lighthouse when I got back up to the parking.  

Made it out to surf tonight after work at Diamond Head.  Checked it at lunch time and it looked really small but clean so I figured it was worth it.  Had some reports from Publics the day before and it was small but clean and some chest high.  So I was hopeful.  Unfortunately it was mostly a float.  Not really much waves at all.  I caught what was available but hard to say it was a surf.  That being said the sunset was great.  Here are a few shots.  Shoot me a report if you have one.

Christmas Eve on Oahu.  Last year this time it was so hot and actually some fun surf.  This year the past week has been windy with 15-30mph gusts for the past 5-6 days and mix in some rain.  The good news is that keeps the crowds down as you can see in the pictures.  There were probably 8-10 of us total from Lighthouses to Cliffs out today.

It's not often that you get a good size south swell this late.  It was pouring this morning and the wind was firing so I skipped it.  I did make it past Diamond Head on my way home tonight and it was firing and the wind was down.  It looked pretty great.  Here are a few shots.  Also here is a link for more pics from this album:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150334672274864.355926.15777...