south swell

Hawaii is getting hit with a bit of a South Swell right now and it is the perfect mix of light winds and perfect sun.  It is making for fun and glassy conditions.

Surf last night was really fun.  I hit up Tonggs.  It was glassy and some head high and even a few overhead sets.  Caught some fun lefts and tried one right that totally closed out on me.

The drops were good and there was a good push for sure behind all of them.  Some of them were actually closing out a bit which is funny for the crumbly shoulders Tonggs gets.

It has been a little while since we have had a significant bump in the South swell.  I was pretty excited and actually woke up at 5:45am sans alarm to get out there since I was so jazzed.  It was smaller than I had been hearing, head high range with a few over maybe, but it was great because there was no wind and it was clean.  Actually not that crowded at Diamond Head and plenty of waves for everyone.  The challenge was the bigger waves were inconsistent.  There would be sets but then it would die down for a while.

Reports called for a bump in the South Swell a bit this Thursday and Friday.  It really did not seem to pan out as was forecast but it was a bit bigger than it has been.  It was actually pretty fun at Diamond Head today with a few fun shoulder high sets.  With the wind finally dying down, it was pretty packed by 8am.  Nothing like the swells that have been hiting the country and the contest at Sunset Beach this week.  But we will take what we can get in town during the winter.

Today was even better then yesterday.  The swell was coming in this morning and the wind was down.  Really clean lines and some really fun sets.  Some were in the head high maybe a little more range.  Tide was pulling really hard West so paddled back East a few times and had a peek between 3 of us for a while.  Shot a few pics and this video after we were done.  East side was suppose to be firing a bit.  Hoping to snap a couple of pics later at Sandys.

Dawn patrol surf this morning.  The south swell was still hitting for sure.  There were some good size overhead sets that rolled through Diamond Head.

Had alot of fun.  Did get worked a few times but some of that was human error on my part.  It was well worth getting out there though.  Maybe because there was still some solid swell, the crowd was not too bad.  Must have kept some out of the water.  Really not too many of us out there.  Enjoy the pics.