oahu surfing

The surf was not like last week and this past weekend.  It was small and a bit choppy at Diamond Head.  One of those days where even the bigger ones just did not want to break.  Alot of paddling.  I did get a few and my last one was pretty fun.  Apparently it is suppose to pick up throughout the day so it might be more fun later.  It was still a beautiful morning out and there was only about 15 of us total in the water so plenty of room.  Oh, and did I mention the wind was back a little today.  Pics are kind of making it look a little better than it was ..hmmm:

Hawaii is getting hit with a bit of a South Swell right now and it is the perfect mix of light winds and perfect sun.  It is making for fun and glassy conditions.

Surf last night was really fun.  I hit up Tonggs.  It was glassy and some head high and even a few overhead sets.  Caught some fun lefts and tried one right that totally closed out on me.

The drops were good and there was a good push for sure behind all of them.  Some of them were actually closing out a bit which is funny for the crumbly shoulders Tonggs gets.

It has been a little while since we have had a significant bump in the South swell.  I was pretty excited and actually woke up at 5:45am sans alarm to get out there since I was so jazzed.  It was smaller than I had been hearing, head high range with a few over maybe, but it was great because there was no wind and it was clean.  Actually not that crowded at Diamond Head and plenty of waves for everyone.  The challenge was the bigger waves were inconsistent.  There would be sets but then it would die down for a while.

Happy St Patrick's to everyone from Oahu.  Surf was fun today.  Surfed "Cliffs" at Diamond Head.  It looked choppy and when I got down the path I saw three Kite Surfers.  I knew that was a bad sign.  To my surprise, once I paddled out the wind was really not bad.  It was choppy but still clean as you can see from the pics.  More size than the past week or so.  Some fun shoulder to maybe even head high at times.  I think the look from up top kept the crowd down.  There was plenty of waves for everyone.  Happy St Patrick's from an Irish kid on Oahu.  

It was worth hitting dawn patrol this morning.  We have had strong trade winds now for about two weeks but the past two days those have died down.  Diamond Head was the perfect way to start an Aloha Friday.  It was glassy with chest to shoulder high sets.  There were a few bigger ones but those were pretty rare.  Not too crowded and plenty of friendly folks out there since everyone was getting waves.  Lighthouses looked like it was really clean and maybe a little more size.  Not too crowded there either considering.

Made it out to surf tonight after work at Diamond Head.  Checked it at lunch time and it looked really small but clean so I figured it was worth it.  Had some reports from Publics the day before and it was small but clean and some chest high.  So I was hopeful.  Unfortunately it was mostly a float.  Not really much waves at all.  I caught what was available but hard to say it was a surf.  That being said the sunset was great.  Here are a few shots.  Shoot me a report if you have one.

Surf this morning at Diamond Head was small, but very clean.  Every so often some really fun sets came through.  It was one of those days I could not figure out if I was even going to get waves with the crowd and the infrequency.  It turned out to actually be pretty fun.  I got a bunch of waves and some long rights actually.  Most of the crowd seemed more interested in floating so that made it better too.

It was a funky day at Diamond Head.  It seems like the wind got on it although there was no wind on the way there.  As you can see from the pictures it was completely choppy.  There actually was a bump and a few fun size waves in the chest high range, but they were coming from every direction.  I actually had more luck sitting inside a little vs the way outside.  Although it was funky it was still kinda fun for what it was.  Not too crowded because of the surf.  I checked Tongs too thinking it was more protected but the only taker was a 4man canoe from the Outrigger Canoe Club.

As Guy Hagi said in his surf report, "A little SW bump is rolling into a handful of Town spots. A small bonus for a winter's day."  I got out there and got a few.  It was pretty clean and a gorgeous day again in Hawaii.  When I looked at the report it said that the weather was bad and overcast, I did not see any of that.  It was waist to chest high and pretty clean.  Some long lulls, but if you were patient there were a few fun waves.

The wind finally died down on Oahu and it cleaned up the waves.  The country is still firing and town was still small this morning, but it was for sure worth going out.  I think word spread that it was cleaner then it's been in a week cause it was a bit more crowded for dawn patrol.  It had a little bump in it vs the past few days as well.  I would say the bigger ones were in the chest-high range and some clean shoulders.  I got one right that was the best wave I have had in 2-3weeks so I was stoked.  Happy New Year's to everyone and Happy Aloha Friday.