oahu surf

There was still the South swell in town and all I can say is the waves were really good.  The wind was down and the bump was still here.  Ended up surfing at old man's on a 6'10" and there was plenty of wave for it.   Big clean and fun sets.  I would call it pretty consistent head high with a few bigger ones.  Of course there were lulls in the action as well.

Went to China Wall for the sunset and to relax and it was beautiful.  Waves were great there too.  A good amount ot takers and some good size.  Here is a video I shot there:

The surf in town this week has been good.  There has been a bump in the swell pretty much since Tuesday and another one came in again today.

At the same time the wind has died down so it is making for glassy conditions and warm water.  YES PLEASE.

A little alitteration today, small saturday surf.  The swell was pretty funky today at Diamond Head.  It was smaller than the past two days and a little more wind so there was some texture on the water.  Every so often there were some pretty fun sets that came through.  The longboards on the outside were snagging those so I eventually had to move back inside.  Got some and it was a beautiful morning so no complaints.  Here are some shots.

Surf this morning at Diamond Head was small, but very clean.  Every so often some really fun sets came through.  It was one of those days I could not figure out if I was even going to get waves with the crowd and the infrequency.  It turned out to actually be pretty fun.  I got a bunch of waves and some long rights actually.  Most of the crowd seemed more interested in floating so that made it better too.

It was a funky day at Diamond Head.  It seems like the wind got on it although there was no wind on the way there.  As you can see from the pictures it was completely choppy.  There actually was a bump and a few fun size waves in the chest high range, but they were coming from every direction.  I actually had more luck sitting inside a little vs the way outside.  Although it was funky it was still kinda fun for what it was.  Not too crowded because of the surf.  I checked Tongs too thinking it was more protected but the only taker was a 4man canoe from the Outrigger Canoe Club.

Christmas Eve on Oahu.  Last year this time it was so hot and actually some fun surf.  This year the past week has been windy with 15-30mph gusts for the past 5-6 days and mix in some rain.  The good news is that keeps the crowds down as you can see in the pictures.  There were probably 8-10 of us total from Lighthouses to Cliffs out today.

Spent the morning on Maui, hanging out eating poke with Shane Victorino.  Yes that is true.

I was in Kihei but there was again no swell there.  Good to cruise and paddle board.  Came back and hit Diamond Head around 4pm.  It looked rainy and overcast and windy.  That seemed to keep the Aloha Friday crowd down.  It was alot better than the reports called for and I thought. There were some sections toward Lighthouse that was really fun.  Got a really fun right with a few sections that made it worth it.

I had a long sleepless night so the cure for it this morning was a surf.  It was one of those mornings you thought the world around you looked fake cause it was so beautiful out.  I got to Diamond Head around 6:25am and it was just the most amazing colors and sunrise.  I saw Rob Machado pictures from the awesome sunset on the North Shore last night, but we had an awesome sunrise in Town today.  The wind was non-existent and it was small but glass.  Report said 0-1ft but there were some funny super glassy chest high ones.  That was plenty fun for me and not crowded so it was just what I nee

The swell hit this week, despite being a day late.  The swell came in on Wednesday and it was fair to say that the surf was just lined up all along the South Shore.  I surfed at Diamond Head and it was fair to say that there were some double overhead sets that came through at dawn patrol.  I got some great drops and also got ruined on a few.  It was just awesome to see the lines way out in the ocean as you walked down the path and even once you got out there.  Here is a shot of how it was lining up.