diamond head surf

The surf was not like last week and this past weekend.  It was small and a bit choppy at Diamond Head.  One of those days where even the bigger ones just did not want to break.  Alot of paddling.  I did get a few and my last one was pretty fun.  Apparently it is suppose to pick up throughout the day so it might be more fun later.  It was still a beautiful morning out and there was only about 15 of us total in the water so plenty of room.  Oh, and did I mention the wind was back a little today.  Pics are kind of making it look a little better than it was ..hmmm:

Got up early this morning and hit Diamond Head around 6:30.  It was a bit of side shore wind but surprisingly clean.  Alot of the crew that is always there in the morning was leaving when I got there.  I was wondering if I missed some email about some meeting or if the surf was bad.  Turned out it was pretty awesome.  Cleaner than I thought considering the wind and pretty fun size.  Backed off since last week/weekends bump but still some chest to shoulder high sets coming through.  There were some lulls in the action but hey, you are surfing in Hawaii so can't complain.

Happy St Patrick's to everyone from Oahu.  Surf was fun today.  Surfed "Cliffs" at Diamond Head.  It looked choppy and when I got down the path I saw three Kite Surfers.  I knew that was a bad sign.  To my surprise, once I paddled out the wind was really not bad.  It was choppy but still clean as you can see from the pics.  More size than the past week or so.  Some fun shoulder to maybe even head high at times.  I think the look from up top kept the crowd down.  There was plenty of waves for everyone.  Happy St Patrick's from an Irish kid on Oahu.  

A little alitteration today, small saturday surf.  The swell was pretty funky today at Diamond Head.  It was smaller than the past two days and a little more wind so there was some texture on the water.  Every so often there were some pretty fun sets that came through.  The longboards on the outside were snagging those so I eventually had to move back inside.  Got some and it was a beautiful morning so no complaints.  Here are some shots.

The surf was fun again this morning.  A little more texture on the water than yesterday but still in the should high range and clean.  It was not that crowded either at dawn patrol.  Surfed Cliffs and there was only about 10 of us total in that area.  Here was a little video I shot after my session, this was a fun right this guy got:

Happy Aloha Friday.  Surf at dawn patrol at Diamond Head this morning was surprisingly fun.  Not sure where the bump came from because the reports basically said flat, but it was in the chest high and maybe a few shoulder high sets.  It was pretty clean and the wind was minimal still.  I took out a long board, which I hate, based on how small it has been all week.  I could have been riding a shorter board for sure but I got some really fun rights and was figuing out how the long boarders do it.  Some really long rides on that board so I was stoked.  Get out if you can, even on town-side to

I had a long sleepless night so the cure for it this morning was a surf.  It was one of those mornings you thought the world around you looked fake cause it was so beautiful out.  I got to Diamond Head around 6:25am and it was just the most amazing colors and sunrise.  I saw Rob Machado pictures from the awesome sunset on the North Shore last night, but we had an awesome sunrise in Town today.  The wind was non-existent and it was small but glass.  Report said 0-1ft but there were some funny super glassy chest high ones.  That was plenty fun for me and not crowded so it was just what I nee

Diamond Head was choppy, windy, and shifty this morning with some pretty good size....bascially it was doing a good imitation of Ocean Beach in SF.  I knew that it wasn't going to be pefect conditions when there were bascially no cars there at 6:30 in the morning.  There was for sure some size but there was also alot of duck diving and paddling to get out.  If you were int the right spot it could be fun but there was alot of not so hot spots.  Total number of takers in the water was 6 so there was no crowd factor at all.  Again, maybe a sign of the conditions.  Still a great way to start a

Surf was small but totally fun this morning at Diamond Head.  The tide was really high but there was a little bump in the water.  No trade winds to speak of so it was really clean.  Not too crowded and totally worth waking up early.  One of the coolest things was that we have clouds over Oahu and some showers and the sky just looked awesome....hence the pic.

HAPPY ALOHA FRIDAY

Today was even better then yesterday.  The swell was coming in this morning and the wind was down.  Really clean lines and some really fun sets.  Some were in the head high maybe a little more range.  Tide was pulling really hard West so paddled back East a few times and had a peek between 3 of us for a while.  Shot a few pics and this video after we were done.  East side was suppose to be firing a bit.  Hoping to snap a couple of pics later at Sandys.