diamond head

The surf in town this week has been good.  There has been a bump in the swell pretty much since Tuesday and another one came in again today.

At the same time the wind has died down so it is making for glassy conditions and warm water.  YES PLEASE.

Grabbed a little Diamond Head grill plate lunch and checked out the surf at Diamond Head.  The reports called for 2-3+ at Diamond Head with the wind on it making it messy.  Accurate I say.

It is smaller at the other locations in town and there were a few clean and fun ones it looked like as you can see.  There were not too many takers in the middle of the day so it would have been good if I didn't have meetings.

Still seems worth it to head out and get a few as long as the rains hold off.  Report will be updated once I surf.

It was a weird day out at Diamond Head.  For sure bigger than Thursday but actually closing out.  From what I counted there was only 6 of us in the water at 6:30 this morning.  The outside sets were big and just closing out which is pretty rare for Diamond Head.  The theme of the session was duck diving.  I think I set a personal record for a session.  That being said, still got some great ones with good drops you just had to be in the right spot at the right time.  It still was worth it.  Every so often it cleaned up and was a little smaller.  This video I shot shows that:

Happy Aloha Friday.  Surf at dawn patrol at Diamond Head this morning was surprisingly fun.  Not sure where the bump came from because the reports basically said flat, but it was in the chest high and maybe a few shoulder high sets.  It was pretty clean and the wind was minimal still.  I took out a long board, which I hate, based on how small it has been all week.  I could have been riding a shorter board for sure but I got some really fun rights and was figuing out how the long boarders do it.  Some really long rides on that board so I was stoked.  Get out if you can, even on town-side to

The wind finally died down on Oahu and it cleaned up the waves.  The country is still firing and town was still small this morning, but it was for sure worth going out.  I think word spread that it was cleaner then it's been in a week cause it was a bit more crowded for dawn patrol.  It had a little bump in it vs the past few days as well.  I would say the bigger ones were in the chest-high range and some clean shoulders.  I got one right that was the best wave I have had in 2-3weeks so I was stoked.  Happy New Year's to everyone and Happy Aloha Friday.

I know that Guy Hagi let us know the wind was dying down today finally, but the wind did not listen to his report.  I got to Diamond Head and paddled out around 6:45am and it was pretty choppy.  It is still really small so not too many places on the South Shore to get waves.  There was 5 of us total in the water that I counted.  That being said, there was a little bump and you could get into a few shoulders.  Those people happened to be everyone but me.  I kept taking off on the ones that doubled up a little or just turned into nothing.  It was still a beautiful morning just not as clean a

Reports called for a bump in the South Swell a bit this Thursday and Friday.  It really did not seem to pan out as was forecast but it was a bit bigger than it has been.  It was actually pretty fun at Diamond Head today with a few fun shoulder high sets.  With the wind finally dying down, it was pretty packed by 8am.  Nothing like the swells that have been hiting the country and the contest at Sunset Beach this week.  But we will take what we can get in town during the winter.

On a day where Kelly wins world title #11 it is just a good day for surfing.  It has been a blast watching the surfers take on and tear it up at Ocean Beach, where I grew up.

That being said, it was a fun day to be surfing in board shorts in warm Oahu.  Diamond head actually had a little bump which Guy Hagi gaves us the heads up on.

There were some fun ones and even a few good size ones that came through.  It was a little crowded probably due to the buzz of the Rip Curl Pro and also the bump.

North Shore was suppose to be good with more swell coming in. 

The reports called for a little south swell bump today and the wind being down.  It was worth it.  Sets were in the shoulder high range and it was one of those mornings along the south shore that the wind was almost non-existent.  It made for glassy conditions and a great way to start the week.  I almost forgot about work.  I got some really fun lefts and rights at Cliffs.  I actually had no problem getting waves from about 7:15am on there was only 5 of us on the outside.  Normal crew was out and it was fun enough that everyone was staying out for more.  I did not want to head in.  

It's not often that you get a good size south swell this late.  It was pouring this morning and the wind was firing so I skipped it.  I did make it past Diamond Head on my way home tonight and it was firing and the wind was down.  It looked pretty great.  Here are a few shots.  Also here is a link for more pics from this album:

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