dawn patrol

The surf was not like last week and this past weekend.  It was small and a bit choppy at Diamond Head.  One of those days where even the bigger ones just did not want to break.  Alot of paddling.  I did get a few and my last one was pretty fun.  Apparently it is suppose to pick up throughout the day so it might be more fun later.  It was still a beautiful morning out and there was only about 15 of us total in the water so plenty of room.  Oh, and did I mention the wind was back a little today.  Pics are kind of making it look a little better than it was ..hmmm:

The wind finally died down on Oahu and it cleaned up the waves.  The country is still firing and town was still small this morning, but it was for sure worth going out.  I think word spread that it was cleaner then it's been in a week cause it was a bit more crowded for dawn patrol.  It had a little bump in it vs the past few days as well.  I would say the bigger ones were in the chest-high range and some clean shoulders.  I got one right that was the best wave I have had in 2-3weeks so I was stoked.  Happy New Year's to everyone and Happy Aloha Friday.

I know that Guy Hagi let us know the wind was dying down today finally, but the wind did not listen to his report.  I got to Diamond Head and paddled out around 6:45am and it was pretty choppy.  It is still really small so not too many places on the South Shore to get waves.  There was 5 of us total in the water that I counted.  That being said, there was a little bump and you could get into a few shoulders.  Those people happened to be everyone but me.  I kept taking off on the ones that doubled up a little or just turned into nothing.  It was still a beautiful morning just not as clean a

I had a long sleepless night so the cure for it this morning was a surf.  It was one of those mornings you thought the world around you looked fake cause it was so beautiful out.  I got to Diamond Head around 6:25am and it was just the most amazing colors and sunrise.  I saw Rob Machado pictures from the awesome sunset on the North Shore last night, but we had an awesome sunrise in Town today.  The wind was non-existent and it was small but glass.  Report said 0-1ft but there were some funny super glassy chest high ones.  That was plenty fun for me and not crowded so it was just what I nee

Expectations were low this morning since I didnt think there was much swell.  It was an awesome morning out.  Glassy.  Not big.  But toally chill and fun.

It actually was a little crowded at Cliffs which is weird for the morning but I paddled down toward Lighthouse and hit the middle peek.  3 of us for a while.

Reports said a little bump was coming in, nothing like country side, but by the end of the session there were some really fun chest high sets.

Worth waking up.

Dawn patrol surf this morning.  The south swell was still hitting for sure.  There were some good size overhead sets that rolled through Diamond Head.

Had alot of fun.  Did get worked a few times but some of that was human error on my part.  It was well worth getting out there though.  Maybe because there was still some solid swell, the crowd was not too bad.  Must have kept some out of the water.  Really not too many of us out there.  Enjoy the pics.